OK
After some apprehension, i tackled the procedures to upgrade the 400 to S-video and it worked first time.
However the instructions i found were a little hard to follow when the pictures 'appeared' to be different to what was described! all credit to kjmann for making this avialable in the first place.
As some on this forum in the past have had issues getting this to work - ive described below my own brief comments to get this working, this is to compliment the good work done already and ive proved a link to kjmanns download (from the website) to get before trying this. http://www.karaokepo...her/400svid.zip
First heres pictures to go by:
![IMG_0535.JPG]()
![IMG_0534.JPG]()
![IMG_0531.JPG]()
![IMG_0530.JPG]()
Luma wire - connect as shown on kjmann picture
chroma wire - connect as shown on kjmann picture
Resistors:
The position of the resistors to tack onto the back of the board was easily done. My exact values were 10 ohms out - due to availability issues - a 510 ohm resistor works just as well as a 500 here - same for the 250 and 125 which were 240 and 120 respectively. Now add the short link also.
Capacitor:
This is absent from Kjmanns picture - all you need is a 16v 22uF cap - i find its best to use tantalum types instead of the chunky electrolytic ones which are less reliable for this type of purpose (just my opinion). Its basically those yellow capacitors with a polarity marked + on it.
Connect the + to the end of the chroma wire you connected to the board and the other would go to your monitor (see my picture of the test wire-up i used)
Luma - 75ohm resistor - this makes a significant difference when present - as the luma give a bright feel - adding this gives a nice deep blue for notepad/basic screens (which is ideal as a reference to see where you are ) one end goes to the end of the wire tap on the board and the other to luma out (to your monitor). adding the resistance will bring the brightness down. My picture has a 240 ohm trio of resistors in parallel (giving a 3rd of this @ approximately 80 ohm)
Tip: - for best results - use a 75ohm resistor in line with a 50 ohm pot - you can then get your minimum 75 ohm but increase as required to tune the luma as required (i didnt need it but some machine may benefit).
ground for signal - use the marked earth points on kjmanns picture - there plenty others on the board.
Audio - unless your really nostalgic and like having no volume control - unplug the internal speaker. Use a wire from the audio tap on kjmanns picture and locate the earth points shown (theres plenty others on the board) you can then use the audio tap for the signal and the ground from the various points.
The video looks amazing although my photo doenst do it justice.
I will probably tackle my 800 and 800xl as the monitor composite does really look poor compaired to this - i hadnt noticed until now.
cheers
Rich
After some apprehension, i tackled the procedures to upgrade the 400 to S-video and it worked first time.
However the instructions i found were a little hard to follow when the pictures 'appeared' to be different to what was described! all credit to kjmann for making this avialable in the first place.
As some on this forum in the past have had issues getting this to work - ive described below my own brief comments to get this working, this is to compliment the good work done already and ive proved a link to kjmanns download (from the website) to get before trying this. http://www.karaokepo...her/400svid.zip
First heres pictures to go by:
Luma wire - connect as shown on kjmann picture
chroma wire - connect as shown on kjmann picture
Resistors:
The position of the resistors to tack onto the back of the board was easily done. My exact values were 10 ohms out - due to availability issues - a 510 ohm resistor works just as well as a 500 here - same for the 250 and 125 which were 240 and 120 respectively. Now add the short link also.
Capacitor:
This is absent from Kjmanns picture - all you need is a 16v 22uF cap - i find its best to use tantalum types instead of the chunky electrolytic ones which are less reliable for this type of purpose (just my opinion). Its basically those yellow capacitors with a polarity marked + on it.
Connect the + to the end of the chroma wire you connected to the board and the other would go to your monitor (see my picture of the test wire-up i used)
Luma - 75ohm resistor - this makes a significant difference when present - as the luma give a bright feel - adding this gives a nice deep blue for notepad/basic screens (which is ideal as a reference to see where you are ) one end goes to the end of the wire tap on the board and the other to luma out (to your monitor). adding the resistance will bring the brightness down. My picture has a 240 ohm trio of resistors in parallel (giving a 3rd of this @ approximately 80 ohm)
Tip: - for best results - use a 75ohm resistor in line with a 50 ohm pot - you can then get your minimum 75 ohm but increase as required to tune the luma as required (i didnt need it but some machine may benefit).
ground for signal - use the marked earth points on kjmanns picture - there plenty others on the board.
Audio - unless your really nostalgic and like having no volume control - unplug the internal speaker. Use a wire from the audio tap on kjmanns picture and locate the earth points shown (theres plenty others on the board) you can then use the audio tap for the signal and the ground from the various points.
The video looks amazing although my photo doenst do it justice.
I will probably tackle my 800 and 800xl as the monitor composite does really look poor compaired to this - i hadnt noticed until now.
cheers
Rich